This morning's dawn patrol consisted of cruising my usual spots looking for something that was working on this full water, short period swell. The tide was very full and a lot of water has been pushed to the coast during the past 3 days so some of the spots were not working very well during the morning's high tide -- more sunlight also helps.
Ended up paddling out at TdlR and caught a half dozen over an hour and a half or so. I was solo -- sure could have used Brett as my buoy so we could have played around at the deeper take-off zone. Played it rather cautious as it was my first session and TdlR can be a rather treacherous spot. The places I surfed during my recent trip to Hawaii were mild in comparison (granted this did not include 2x o/h Pipeline!). My first wave was nothing great -- a rather safe wave -- but it felt like I stretched my neck out and almost froze it. Guess I was rather stiff from the plane seats and driving yesterday - the car seat needed my towel for back support which I added this morning. My legs also needed the first session warm-up conditioning.
Tomorrow should be a much better session for getting the kinks out -- too bad we enter a flat spell after that! Glimmer of hope on the horizon for Brett as the swell turns from NE to N, increases from 6 to 10 sec periods and the 1am forecast reflects the bump up in size. Feels like the follow-on 7am and 1pm forecasts will be a little larger.
Post surf grinds: sandwich de jamon, huevo y queso! Felt like homecoming at my favorite post-surf panaderia.
Model Cycle: 2012 JAN 07 06Z
Time Zone: GMT - 5 hours
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SURF SURF DIR SEAS PERIOD WIND WND/DIR
(ft) (deg) (ft) (sec) (kts) (deg)
------- -------- ----- ------ ------- -------
1/7 1am 5 - 11 N 1 8.6 10.7 12 - 17 ENE 65
1/7 7am 4 - 8 N 2 7.2 10.3 12 - 16 ENE 78
1/7 1pm 3 - 7 N 4 6.1 9.7 7 - 9 E 90
1/7 7pm 3 - 6 N 6 5.5 9.3 8 - 11 E 87
1/8 7am 2 - 5 N 351 5.4 9.2 8 - 11 ESE 100
1/8 1pm 2 - 4 N 350 4.8 8.5 2 - 3 E 86
1/8 7pm 2 - 4 N 1 4.4 7.8 7 - 9 ENE 63
1/9 7am 1 - 3 NE 33 4.4 7.2 11 - 15 E 82
1/9 1pm 1 - 3 NNE 18 4.0 8.3 7 - 10 ENE 68
1/9 7pm 1 - 3 NNE 29 3.9 7.4 12 - 16 ENE 73
1/10 7am 1 - 2 NE 39 3.8 6.3 10 - 13 ENE 71
1/10 1pm 1 - 2 NE 41 4.0 6.1 11 - 15 ENE 55
1/11 7am 1 - 2 NE 40 3.7 5.5 12 - 16 ENE 69
1/11 1pm 1 - 2 NE 40 3.8 5.7 10 - 14 ENE 59
1/12 7am 1 - 2 NE 46 4.0 6.1 12 - 16 E 83
1/12 1pm 1 - 2 ENE 52 3.8 6.3 7 - 10 ENE 68
1/13 7am 1 - 2 ENE 53 3.2 6.2 8 - 12 E 92
1/13 1pm 1 - 2 ENE 54 3.1 6.4 6 - 9 ENE 61
1/13 7pm 1 - 2 ENE 58 3.3 6.5 10 - 14 ENE 76
1/14 1am 2 - 4 N 5 3.7 10.3 9 - 13 E 84
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