Pounding at The Wash
Terry and I paddled out to The Wash yesterday afternoon after the swell had filled in during the day. The tide was rising with a high tide around 6:30p. Combined with the 5 foot, 17 sec periods was creating some pumping, pounding, pitching waves.
My first few waves were takeoffs just outside the northside of The Rock. These suckers were going tricky with a pounding throwing lip of white water. The first wave did a funny pounding throw of me, airborne I was and then pounding onto my board on my right side that totally smacked my rib cage from my lower to upper side -- it was to remain very tender rest of the session and now into the day after. Advil is helping and I hope to hit The Wash again this afternoon.
Wave two was a near repeat -- I made the ski jump landing but then the lip of the whitewater violently separated me from the board -- also lost my right contact on that one.
Wave three was a nothing. Wave #4 was a near-epic ride way into the paddle out zone. We surfed the next hour and a half. At that point between only half seeing and the building cross chop which was creating a skipping rock effect across the face of the wave and just pounding my ribcage all the more.
Caught a long one nearly in. Then some fun ensued. The waves were washing way up onto the beach creating a huge outflow rip. I was getting nowhere trying to paddle in so paddled over to the north section to catch a wavelet further towards the shore. But, what was going on there was more like the Waimea shore break. That was a No Go option. So, I paddled back to the south side to ride/paddle in between the normally exposed reef in front of the walking path and made my way in.
The Outer Wash is going off now at midday but no way I can go out there with my bad side (can't paddle effectively with my right arm for one thing) so will wait for The Wash to start working at the mid-tide with the rising tide.
Papagayo winds were fierce overnight and all morning but have now subsided to *just* Papagayo winds.
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