The forecasted swell filled in with a vengeance this morning (or overnight). We drank a cup of coffee, ate an early breakfast and another cup, drank some water, and watched a little more. As low tide approached Terry and I paddled out to the Outer Wash.
It wasn't a great day out there for Terry -- you know how some days are like that - but it was a fine day for me. Waves were rolling in sets of 5 or 6 in the 8 to 10 ft. range. I caught about 5 of those beasts -- each a little different -- and watched a few roll by at one point just south of me 20 yards pitching out with a face so beautiful -- looked like two man lengths high easily.
After a huge clean-up set rolled through we called it quits out there as the currents were steadily pushing us in towards shore and to the north. I watched Terry catch a few in around The Rock but nothing was working for me... after being outside it was too much of an adjustment. Currents continued to be funky on the paddle-in. All I can say for now is, "I feel good!"
Model Cycle: 2012 JUN 19 06Z
Time Zone: GMT - 6 hours
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SURF SURF DIR SEAS PERIOD WIND WND/DIR
(ft) (deg) (ft) (sec) (kts) (deg)
------- -------- ----- ------ ------- -------
6/19 12am 3 - 7 SSW 202 4.0 16.4 1 - 1 WSW 230
6/19 6am 3 - 7 SSW 192 4.3 15.3 2 - 3 E 84
6/19 12pm 3 - 7 S 188 4.6 14.5 3 - 4 SW 217
6/19 6pm 3 - 7 S 189 4.7 13.7 5 - 7 WSW 240
6/20 12am 3 - 7 S 188 4.6 13.3 3 - 5 W 266
6/20 6am 3 - 6 S 188 4.5 12.8 3 - 4 NNE 11
6/20 12pm 3 - 6 S 187 4.3 12.5 5 - 7 WNW 304
6/20 6pm 3 - 6 S 188 4.2 12.1 8 - 11 WNW 297
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