Monday, June 5, 2017

CRNW 2017-0605am (Mon) Forecast - PM Update

My friend started texting me wildly mid-morning, "Rod the surf is going to be too big, WAAAY to big. Maybe even BIGLY! Maybe we should go a week earlier."

"Heavens no!" I replied. The large waves forecast usually softens up a little bit by the time the forecast window becomes 1 to 5 days compared to looking 14+ days into the future right now. And the local winds that far out are way too unpredictable.

Looks like we will have surf. "No longboards!" kind of surf :)

Light south winds aren't too bad, light southwest winds are great!




The table below is one of the main sources that we track. The longer range forecasts outside of a week have been overestimating The Rock the past few years, but seem to be accurate for the Outer Wash.



The offshore swells forecast shows a dominant trend: mixed swell with short period  (8-9 sec) of westerly swell of 6-7 ft. and longer period (15 sec) southerly swell of 5-6 ft. and some very long preiod 18 sec swell of 2-3 ft. also out of the south.

What does all that mean? Most frequent waves from the west head high, less frequent sets out of the south ranging shoulder to just overhead. Be wary of the surprise mixed waves that will want to suddenly break in front of you! Nonetheless, not as bad as last year when we had mixed NW and SW, that was some crazy sh*t!





Evening Update:
EXTENDED FORECAST: (Friday, June 9th, and beyond)                

Swell/Surf: The current SSW swell will ease into the back half of the work week. Look for mainly waist to head high waves with occasional larger peaks at standouts. Southerly windswell will be on the rise Friday, as well as some mid to shorter period S swell for the weekend. Overall, plenty of waves but likely on the jumbled side of things due to the shorter period and mix of swells - Stay tuned.

On a more important note, we'll be keeping an eye on a potential strong low to develop through the week, which could eventuate into a powerful South swell for around the 17-19th. Medium confidence on this swell event, yet, various models are a bit unclear on size/strength but track is looking favorable, along with adjacent high pressure. Right now, easily overhead+ waves (likely bigger), but we'll keep you posted on the progress of that storm/swell system as it develops

Bring Wax!!! And good leashes!!!

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