CRNW Forecast and Rpt of Sun, 2014-0601

We paddled out at 2:30p. There was still some onshore winds and it didn't look great but the expectation was for some dying winds and clean-up. The paddleout was like a roller coaster at times, up and down through the moving swells and sideways back and forth with the mixed up conditions current/wavelets. Conditions did improve but the waves did not break consistently clean and even and there was cross chop in the water that made a fair evaluation of the new board problematic. There were some real nice drops in the 6+ft. range from Northside Rock.

Bonzer Update: For today's evaluation I moved the True Ames Bonzer 6" fin forward 5/8" inches from yesterday. The board appeared to be a little looser on the turns but stiffness was still evident. I am not there yet! As conditions for a fair evaluation were not great I will reserve final judgment. On some of the turning, especially on a bottom turn or hard cutback the board would turn right over on rail and keep on over (wipeout). Again, due to the bumpiness of the wave chops and mini-wavelets it may have been due to the bouncing around.

Nonetheless, of concern was the small wave/whitewater I caught on the inside for getting in to the shore for the last 30 yrs. When attempting to turn left or right to catch some face the sucker would not budge -- kept forward straight momentum. That was scary since there are rocks here and there that quick avoidance maneuvers are sometimes required or the ability to climb over the rock or under it. I did not have that kind of control as the board was configured. Think there is more going on here than just a 6" center fin... the Austin would have turned or angled on a dime with a 6" fin and my two small sidebites. The culprit may be all the surface area of the runners especially with those long bases.  Tomorrow I move down to the 5.25" old True Ames fin that I brought (it used to be a 6" non-Bonzer True Ames with a similar profile to the 6" Bonzer fin -- had to sand it down from reef scrapes over the years).

Bouyweather forecast from the morning:

  Model Cycle: 2014 JUN 01 00Z         
  Time Zone: GMT - 6 hours             
-------------------------------------------------------------
             SURF    SURF DIR   SEAS  PERIOD   WIND    WND/DIR
             (ft)       (deg)   (ft)   (sec)   (kts)     (deg)
            -------  --------  -----  ------  -------  -------

6/1    6am   5 - 10  SSW 198    5.4    16.4    5 -  7  ESE 119
6/1   12pm   5 - 10  SSW 195    5.7    15.6    6 -  8  SSW 195
6/1    6pm   5 - 10  SSW 198    5.8    15.3    3 -  5  WSW 245

6/2    6am   5 - 11  SSW 191    6.0    16.1    4 -  6  ESE 107
6/2   12pm   5 - 10  SSW 191    5.9    15.4    3 -  5   SW 215
6/2    6pm   5 - 10  SSW 195    6.0    14.8    6 -  8  WSW 240

6/3    6am   7 - 15  SSW 194    6.2    20.3    1 -  2    N 351
6/3   12pm   7 - 14  SSW 195    6.2    19.2    6 -  8    W 274
6/3    6pm   6 - 13  SSW 195    6.2    18.6    6 -  8    W 269

6/4    6am   6 - 12  SSW 197    6.1    17.4    3 -  4  NNW 349
6/4   12pm   5 - 11  SSW 197    6.0    16.6    7 - 10    W 270
6/4    6pm   5 - 11  SSW 201    5.9    16.4    5 -  7    W 273

6/5    6am   4 -  9  SSW 203    5.3    15.5    2 -  3   NW 327
6/5   12pm   4 -  9  SSW 205    5.0    15.4    6 -  8    W 269
6/5    6pm   4 -  8  SSW 205    4.9    15.1    6 -  8    W 267

6/6    6am   3 -  7  SSW 207    4.4    14.4    0 -  1    S 183
6/6   12pm   3 -  7  SSW 207    4.3    14.2    6 -  8  WSW 236
6/6    6pm   3 -  6  SSW 209    4.2    13.7    6 -  8   SW 226

6/7    6am   3 -  6  SSW 204    4.0    13.5    0 -  1    S 177
6/7   12pm   3 -  6  SSW 199    3.8    13.2    6 -  8  WSW 236
6/7    6pm   2 -  5  SSW 204    3.8    12.9    7 -  9  WSW 231

Other forecasts from the night




Spot forecast:
2-4 feet with a dominant S long-period swell.

Primary Swell: 2.2ft. 17.1 seconds 184 degrees (S)
Secondary Swell:2.2ft. 14.7 seconds 188 degrees (S)