No all-stars out in the line-up today but I awarded John Hughes with the "Rider of the Day" award. I know my body is spent from 7 straight days of surfing and yesterday's ordeal--need a day off but that does not emerge until Tuesday. More pacing! We are moving into a high tidal change phase so will have to keep eyes on comings and goings. But it is manageable, jaja. Everybody did catch a few waves during out 1.5 hr effort, just no "trip waves." My catch-to-attempt rate was way down, but not so unsurprising... and it showed with just about everything happening: twisted leash, baggies slipping down, inability to pivot-and-kick-go. One washy wave I actually headed off the peak bodysurfing while my board stayed behind.
Tomorrow the swell settles down a little bit but there will still be plenty of water moving around. The constant need to paddle today has played havoc with my energy level.
On the bright side the past few days have been sunny!!! We've all had "trip waves" and the good and company has been good. Today's brunch was David's version of gallo pinto -- great leftovers :)
3pm, it might be time for a rum on the rocks!
Tides for the next two days:
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