PRNW Forecast & Rpt of Mon, 2013-0128am

Dateline PdP: Conditions appeared marginal when I arrived just before 7am. A drop-knee rider was already out and minutes later caught one of the rare rights all across the surf zone. With the strong N direciotnal we were likely to have several rights today. Oh, but the dreaded paddle back out after riding a right.

After an hour the gas mas went in and others started to paddle out, mostly the local boys that I know and talked story with yesterday while we watched the surf. The current finally started to ease back as well and not as many clean-up sets were rolling through. Funny enough I started to catch even more waves with the other 7 guys out there than when it was just one other and myself! Soon enough one of those set wave rights appeared out of know where, I took a couple of strokes and was flying, came off the top floater sytle and then pulled into a tube, came out and cut back hard left and then rolled right for some more down the line speed. Clearly my best wave and ride of the trip. I paddled in and walked back north and paddled out for a couple of more waves before the winds hit.

As we were talking story afterwards one of the guys told me, "Aren't you the guy that named this spot a long time ago?" I chuckled and said no I can't take credit for naming this spot but I can tell you the story about it from back in 1967-1968. They started laughing so hard! Many of the local boys think I am only 40 or 50 maybe. Then a couple of them started peppering me with questions about what it was like back then and how often we used to ride the local spots. It was a good story :)

Waves were a solid 4 to 6 foot with some larger clean-up sets, but when caught inside they were not bone crushing out in the deeper water.

Post surf grinds: The usual!



  Model Cycle: 2013 JAN 28 06Z         
  Time Zone: GMT - 5 hours             
-------------------------------------------------------------
             SURF    SURF DIR   SEAS  PERIOD   WIND    WND/DIR
             (ft)       (deg)   (ft)   (sec)   (kts)     (deg)
            -------  --------  -----  ------  -------  -------
1/28   7am   3 -  6    N   2    5.2     9.8   15 - 20  ENE  61 MON
1/28   1pm   2 -  5    N   3    5.1     9.5   15 - 20  ENE  56
1/28   7pm   1 -  3   NE  40    5.1     5.7   16 - 22  ENE  61

1/29   7am   1 -  3  NNE  28    4.8     6.6   13 - 17  ENE  72 TUE
1/29   1pm   1 -  3  NNE  27    4.6     6.7   10 - 13  ENE  66
1/29   7pm   2 -  4   NE  39    5.0     6.8   14 - 18  ENE  72

1/30   7am   2 -  5  NNE  27    6.1     7.3   15 - 20  ENE  74 WED
1/30   1pm   3 -  6    N   6    5.8     9.5   14 - 19  ENE  63
1/30   7pm   3 -  6    N   8    5.8     9.2   15 - 20  ENE  74